It looks bad and the rust inhibits heat transfer. The green/ blue stuff = a very rusty looking cylinder head and block. We have seen the water jacket holes around the sealing part of the head gasket corrode to the point of head gasket failure. Along with that, the acids created by the diesel engine are corrosive to the aluminum. Straight water = Lots of hard water deposits inside the water jacket. We can see the difference in engines that have used straight water, green/ blue 'stuff' or the correct g-12, or any of the versions. It's easier to balance a system out for coolant ratio than to purge it for the wrong coolant type! Owners, STOP adding coolant in a pinch just add some Desani bottled water or even tap water if you must! G-12xx IS formulated to handle some amounts of minerals for this exact reason! coolant is not required for lubrication in a VW system, it's a cooling medium and water excels at this! if you are really in a pinch straight water works best!!!! ( you always have trapped coolant, it takes a lot of flushing with 100% water to have only water in the system). running coolant ratios of less than 60% coolant 40% water when servicing system using anything other than Reverse Osmosis or distilled water. adding anything other than HOAT coolant (additives, which are used in or called for in OAT coolants) mixing anything other than HOAT coolant Stop calling coolant by their "colors" Color NEVER correlates to coolant type, and the quickest way to fubar your cooling system. That's why the reservoir is replaced at 150,000 miles, these use G-05 or an OAT type coolant (yellow). MB uses an additive system located in the reservoir. OAT coolants require certain additives be added to the systems to provide tailored system requirements. VW coolants are HOAT types, the others are not.
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